Speechless in Sequoia

SA Guide: Pear Lake / Aster Lake

When we received our permits for our trip up the Lakes Trail the day before it had been our plan to hike the six-plus miles to Pear Lake and camp there. At the time, though, the ranger asked if we had any problem staying at Emerald Lake instead. I said no and asked if there was some reason that option was preferable. He replied, "Well, it's quieter."

Having no cause to believe otherwise, we took his advice. I couldn't help wondering, though, how out of two wilderness lakes, at 9400 and 9600 feet respectively, both embraced by granite ramparts, one could be "quieter" than the other.

After checking out Pear Lake for ourselves, we got it.

Before we left for the day, Laura and I stuffed everything we could imagine might have the slightest scent - food, sunscreen, chapstick, pills - into the bear box near our site. However we weren't really thinking about bears. Until you experience them firsthand, it's hard to believe that furry, cat-sized guinea pigs could be so vexatiously covetous of your personal items, but the marmots had been casing our campsite all morning, sometimes within just a few nosy feet of where we stood. They're cute little buggers, but just let them steal one of my Cherry-Pomegranate Pop-Tarts and there will be hell to pay.

Leaving camp, we picked up the Lakes Trail to Pear Lake and worked around the north end of the tall, rugged cliffs that flank the east side of Emerald Lake. Views of lovely little Aster Lake below, and the broad, stone and tree covered cliffs descending into the Tokopah Valley filled the western panorama.

Laura could barely take two steps along the trail without exclaiming over the botanical bounty. Flowers were anywhere that rocks and trees weren't, and we were apparently going to get a shot of each one...

Sidalcea oregana - Oregon Checkerbloom

Pedicularis attollens - Little Elephant's Head

Spiraea densiflora - Mountain Spiraea

But the destination beckoned, and we were eventually on the move again. Rounding the ridge the vistas opened up to the east into the Tablelands. A massive basin of granite peaks and valleys filled the scene - it was almost too much to visually absorb. This prospect riveted our attention until we finally came upon Pear Lake, set in a ring of rock walls much like Emerald, but larger, less forested and even more dramatic. Alta Peak loomed over the scene to the south.

After noting some of the nicer campsites (for future reference) we circled the east side of the lake and picked out a shoreline slope for a snack and a sun-warmed rest. We'd seen a few people fiddling around their campsites on the way through, but other than that, and the requisite marmots, there wasn't much activity. After getting a bit hot we explored further along the lakeside for a spot to take a swim.

Laura tried, but was unable to devote the time required for her usual glacially slow immersion in water. I, on the other hand, did make it out into the lake a few tens of feet...for a few tens of seconds (it was snow melt after all). As I swam back to shore I could hear splashing and whoops from back at the trail side of the lake. We climbed up along the east shore for a bit of exploration, then returned to the campsite area to discover that a group of dayhikers had joined the campers already there, bringing with them inflatable toys and beach blankets. Apparently, Pear Lake was the party lake. As the decibel level rose (and I offered a mental note of thanks to the ranger who'd tipped us off), we decided to go back and investigate Aster Lake, hoping to return to Pear some other time, most likely on a weekday.

Aster Lake is another gem, but in a more intimate setting. It was calm and quiet, and warmer than Pear. We were the only ones there, sitting on the southern shore, looking out over the lake and the great valley below. It was one of those moments that you wish would never have to end.

As I relaxed, reclining on the toasty block of stone, just one thought occupied my mind..."I hope those little varmints haven't gotten my Pop-Tarts."